Brakes and Brake Repair

While most spongy brakes are caused by some kind of brake fluid problem, there are several parts of your brake system where that leak or pressure disruption could originate.

Spongy brake causes that can be fixed with routine maintenance include:

• Low brake fluid - A common cause of spongy brakes. Brake fluid levels fall over time (even without leaks), and air enters your brake lines to fill the void. If there’s no leak involved, bleeding the brake lines (draining enough fluid to evacuate the air) and topping off the fluid will restore proper hydraulic pressure.

• Moisture in the system - When there is too much moisture in the system, the brake fluid can get too hot and cause what is known as a brake pedal fade. The solution? Test the brake fluid and replace if needed.

Spongy brake causes that need diagnosis and repair include:

• Leaking brake fluid

• Master cylinder failure - this part must be working perfectly to deliver correct pressure from the pedal to the brakes.

• ABS hydraulic assembly problems

• Leaking calipers (on disc brakes)

• Brake shoe adjustment problems (on drum brakes)

From the master cylinder to the calipers and brake shoes, Midas technicians know all the places where spongy brakes start. We’ll tell you what needs work now (and what can wait), and provide a written estimate before making any repairs.

Air compresses (unlike hydraulic brake fluid), causing the brake pedal to feel spongy. But air in the brake lines is also a symptom of several other brake problems, from worn braking system parts to brake fluid leaks. Some of these problems can lead to brake failure, so early diagnosis of any change in brake response is a very important road safety measure.

The first thing you’ll feel with air in your brake lines is a soft, spongy, or mushy sensation in your brake pedal. If your brake pressure keeps dropping, you’ll need to press your brake pedal further and further toward the floor of your vehicle. If the air in your brake lines is due to a brake fluid leak, your brakes could eventually fail. That’s why you should have your brakes checked as soon as you feel any difference in your brake pedal or brake response.

Spongy brakes are one of several symptoms of a bad master cylinder -- when the cylinder’s seals are too worn to maintain pressure from the brake pedal to the brake lines.

Let’s quickly review how brakes work. Pressing the brake pedal pushes the fluid in your master cylinder through the brake lines to exert hydraulic pressure on the brakes. This pressure brings the brake pads or shoes into contact with the rotors and/or drums, creating friction that slows down and stops your vehicle.

Have your brakes checked as soon as you notice any of these symptoms that may point to a bad master cylinder (as well as other serious car problems):

• Soft or spongy brakes

• Hard of stiff brakes

• Leaking brake fluid

• Brake pedal falls to the floor when applying pressure

A brake inspection should always include a thorough examination of your entire brake system from the pedal to the rotors and drums (the brake parts attached to your wheels). Along the way, your brake lines should be checked for leaks and proper hydraulic pressure. Even your external brake lights should be tested.

At Midas, Secure Stop® brake service includes a 55-point brake inspection covering these major components (and their smaller parts, such as seals and connectors):

• Dashboard alerts such as BRAKE and ABS Lights

• Brake Pedal

• Power Brake Booster

• Brake Fluid Reservoir

• Master Cylinder

• Brake Lines/ Hoses

• ABS Hydraulic Unit (if equipped)

• ABS Controller & other ABS components (if equipped)

• On Drum Brakes:

  • Backing Plate

  • Wheel Cylinder

  • Brake Shoes

  • Parking Brake/Adjuster Assembly

  • Brake Hardware

• On Disc Brakes:

  • Hub Bearing Assembly

  • Brake Rotor (disc)

  • Brake Pads

  • Brake Pad Shims

  • Caliper Assembly

  • Brake Hardware

After the inspection, your local Midas technician will provide a written estimate to fix any brake problems they diagnose, and will help you prioritize what needs immediate attention (and what can wait) before making the repairs.

Having your brakes inspected once a year or every 10,000-12,000 miles is common, but check your vehicle owner’s manual for the recommended brake inspection interval for your model. And have your brakes checked by a mechanic at the first sign of any of these brake problems:

• Dashboard lights or warnings - Depending on your vehicle, your BRAKE light, ABS light, Check Engine light may alert you to various brake problems.

• Leaking brake fluid - Any fluid leak should be inspected.

• Any change in brake response - Taking longer to stop, needing to press the pedal further toward the floor, or having to apply more pressure as you hold the brakes down a steep hill -- these issues suggest potential brake problems.

• Any new noise when braking - Squealing, grinding, squeaking, or rattling can point to problems with the brake pads and rotors. Hissing sounds can indicate brake fluid leaks or air in the brake lines. Clunking, knocking, or clicking noises can indicate suspension problems.

• Any shaking or vibration when braking - Rough stops may mean warped rotors. On the other hand, a pulsing brake pedal during a hard stop is your ABS system in action.

• Soft or spongy brakes - Spongy brakes often mean low brake fluid, air in the brake lines, or certain brake shoe problems.

• Hard or stiff brakes - You may have contaminants in the brake fluid or a bad seal on the master cylinder or brake booster.

• Engine misfiring or stalling - You may have a bad power brake booster.

• Vehicle pulling to one side when braking - You could have faulty brake hardware or an uneven hydraulic issue. These problems can cause a pull that will also result in uneven brake pad wear.

Brake inspections usually take less than 30 minutes as a standalone service. Repairs and maintenance to your brakes will take additional time. Your Midas technician will provide a written estimate and a detailed explanation of any diagnosed brake problems before making repairs.

Here are some signs that it’s time to inspect your brake rotors for possible resurfacing or replacement:

• A high-pitched screeching sound from your brakes - That’s the dreaded “metal on metal” sound telling you that your brake pads are worn down completely. Your metal calipers are probably digging deep grooves into your rotors.

• Squeaky brakes - Brake pad material has transferred to the rotor.

• Vibrations or jittery sensation when braking - Your brake rotors might be warped.

Before that point, your mechanic can tell you when your rotors are too worn from brake pad contact to be safely resurfaced. Mechanics are required to replace any rotor that’s worn to a level below its manufacturer-required minimum thickness.

The most convenient time to check the rotors is during a Brake Inspection. On most vehicles, it’s difficult to get a good look at your brake rotors yourself without removing the wheels. Your Midas technician will advise you if it’s time for new rotors now or whether it’s a job that can wait.

Brake rotors are expected to wear down in the shape of brake pads, and these indentations can often be resurfaced away (until the rotor gets too thin and must be replaced). Grooves can also be caused by foreign objects under the brake pads, corrosion, or by softer metal in the rotors than on the brake pads. These, too, can be resurfaced as long as the groove isn’t deeper than the rotor’s minimum thickness.

The most common cause of brake rotor warping is excessive heat buildup caused by:

• Glazing from brake pad material - Pieces of brake pad material can transfer onto the rotor.

• Rotors that are too thin to dissipate heat - Rotors wear thin due to regular use (and resurfacing during brake service). When they’re below the manufacturer’s minimum thickness, it’s time for new rotors.

Hydraulic pressure in your brake lines can drop for several reasons, involving various brake components, but the three themes are:

• Brake fluid loss.

• Air in the brake lines.

• Old or contaminated brake fluid.

No matter what’s going on with your brake fluid, the first step is always a Brake Inspection.

How does air get into your brake lines?

A vehicle’s brake fluid level can drop over time due to normal brake system wear as well as brake fluid leaks. Air then enters the brake lines to fill the vacuum left by lost fluid. It’s able to get in because the brake line system isn’t perfectly airtight to begin with -- and it’s open to the air every time someone checks your brake fluid level.

What happens when you have old or contaminated brake fluid?

Brake fluid, like motor oil, has additives that help fight corrosion and fluid breakdown. Just like motor oil, brake fluid is changed periodically to maintain its level of protection and performance. Another reason brake fluid doesn’t last forever is contamination. Brake fluid absorbs water. It draws moisture from the atmosphere every time it’s exposed to the air. (All it takes is removing the cap to the master cylinder to check the fluid level.) Over time, this moisture can rust and corrode the internal metal parts of your brake system.

Why is my brake fluid low?

A vehicle’s brake fluid runs low either because it’s leaking or from normal brake operation. Here’s one reason: as your brake pads and/or shoes wear down, more space opens between the pads and/or shoes, and the brake rotors and/or drums in their resting position. It takes more brake fluid to cross that bigger space and reach the wheels, thus decreasing the brake fluid level.

What happens when you have low brake fluid?

When you have low brake fluid, the effects begin with air in your brake lines (causing a spongy brake pedal), and can escalate to a critical loss of hydraulic pressure in the brake lines (causing brake failure). If your brake fluid level is low as part of normal operation, the escalation will be gradual -- but if you let it get too low, you risk getting air into expensive parts like your anti-lock brake system. If you have a brake fluid leak, there is no way to know how quickly your brake performance will deteriorate. As soon as you notice any difference in your brake response (or signs of a brake fluid leak), have your brakes inspected at your earliest convenience.

What color is brake fluid?

Fresh brake fluid ranges from colorless to light brown or amber, and older brake fluid is often a darker brown. Old brake fluid can carry debris that, over time, may erode the seals on your master cylinder and brake calipers. But color alone does not tell you when it’s time to replace your brake fluid.

Instead of relying on brake fluid color to determine when to change fluid, the Automotive Maintenance and Repair Association’s (AMRA) Motorist Assurance Program (MAP) recommends brake fluid testing by a qualified technician. Your local Midas shop can test your brake fluid for the depletion of corrosion inhibitors and for incorrect fluid added, among other things.

What does it mean to bleed brake fluid?

Bleeding your brake lines is jargon for eliminating air from the brake lines. It’s done by draining brake fluid to get rid of air bubbles, then adding enough fluid to restore the correct hydraulic pressure to your brake system. As long as the air in your brake lines isn’t caused by a brake fluid leak, bleeding your brakes removes a major cause of mushy or spongy brakes. Bleeding is an alternative to flushing the brake lines when you’re not close to your recommended brake fluid change interval.

The term Brake Flush is used by most automotive shops to describe the process of draining and filling, changing or exchanging the brake fluid in an automotive brake system. Sometimes a flush chemical such as denatured alcohol is used -- if a contaminant (such as power steering or transmission fluid) has gotten into the hydraulic portion of your brake system. This decontamination procedure is the most technical definition of a brake fluid flush, and some experts call this procedure a chemical flush.

Outside the chemical flush scenario, periodic brake fluid exchange is typically recommended for routine maintenance. This process simply involves removing your old brake fluid and replacing it with new fluid. Many shops call this process a “Brake Flush” even though flush chemicals are not used.

Through careful testing of your brake fluid, a certified automotive technician can determine whether your vehicle needs a chemical flush or simply a routine maintenance brake fluid exchange.

How do I know when my brake fluid should be replaced?

Here are some signs that it’s time to service or replace your brake fluid:

• On many vehicles, your dashboard brake light will trigger if your brake fluid reaches a low level -- check your vehicle manual for the specifics.

• Your brake fluid is near the minimum mark on the master cylinder reservoir.

• On a white towel, the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir is medium brown or darker. (New brake fluid is light brown, amber, or clear.)

How often should brake fluid be changed?

Brake fluid can last anywhere from two to five years, so check your vehicle manual for your recommended brake fluid care cycle. If your vehicle manufacturer does not recommend a specific maintenance schedule for brake fluid replacement (often called brake fluid flush), monitor your brake fluid level, and have the fluid tested with every oil change -- and schedule a Brake Inspection at the first sign of spongy brakes. Your local Midas technician can help you decide when it’s time for new brake fluid.

To help spot brake problems early, it’s a wise precaution to check your brake fluid with each oil change. And remember: Midas visually checks your brake lines and fluid levels as part of every Midas Closer Look Vehicle Check.™

How can I tell if my brake fluid is leaking?

Common signs of a brake fluid leak include:

• A puddle of clear, amber, or brown fluid where you park your car.

• The brake fluid level in your master cylinder reservoir drops faster than usual.

• A spongy brake pedal or other difference in brake response.

• Your dashboard brake light comes on.

Any one of these signs means your brakes should be inspected by a qualified mechanic.

To get started tracking down your brake fluid leak, trust Midas for a thorough Brake Inspection. Your local Midas technician will explain the cause of your leak and provide a written estimate before making any repairs.

Get an oil/fluid leak diagnosis as soon as possible if you notice any one or more of the following oil leak symptoms:

• The red dashboard light is illuminated.

• You find oil stains (brown or amber fluid) under your vehicle or streaked on engine parts.

• An abnormal drop in your oil level.

• Blue smoke from your exhaust, or the smell of burning oil.

• Grinding or clattering sounds from metal parts (“metal on metal”).

While oil leak repair is often quick and affordable, you should still treat it as an urgent issue. Ignoring an oil leak can lead to major repairs and safety hazards:

• Environmental impact: Oil leaks can increase engine emissions, and lost oil ends up in the environment instead of being properly recycled at your next oil change.

• Degraded hoses and belts: Oil can damage parts and surfaces not designed to come in contact with it.

• Wear down of metal engine parts from loss of lubrication. If you hear “metal on metal” sounds, your engine parts are grinding against each other.

• Catastrophic engine failure.

• Engine fire hazard.

Is it safe to drive with an oil leak?

For a very small oil leak, make an appointment for a diagnosis as soon as possible -- and minimize unnecessary driving in the meantime.

For a severe oil leak, consider having your vehicle towed to the appointment. For example, significant oil loss and grinding “metal on metal” sounds suggest that a loss of lubrication is damaging your engine parts. Lose enough oil and your engine can seize and stall. Even worse, strong burning odors and blue smoke indicate a possible fire hazard within the engine. Each situation endangers you, your passengers, and others on the road.

Where is your oil leak coming from? Oil leaks commonly originate in these auto parts -- which can either wear out or simply be sealed incorrectly:

• The oil filter.

• The oil drain plug, valve cover gasket, rear main seals, and any other oil seals and gaskets.

• The filler cap.

• The oil pan (or oil pan gasket).

• Hoses and oil lines.

• Piston rings.

• Connections between any of these parts.

What causes oil to leak into the spark plugs?

Oil collecting on the spark plug well can be caused by a leaky valve gasket, valve guide, o-ring, or piston ring. In many cases, the leak can be repaired by replacing the rubber seal.

What causes oil to leak into coolant?

Like all oil and fluid leaks, oil and coolant mixture should be seen by a mechanic at your earliest convenience. The cause is often minor, such as a leaky head gasket. But it can also indicate serious damage such as a cracked engine block.

Does synthetic oil cause leaks?

Synthetic oil does not cause oil leaks, but switching to synthetic oil after years of conventional oil changes can reveal preexisting leaks. How? The detergents in synthetic oils clear away thebuild-up (aka sludge) that was previously plugging the leak. One solution: Switching to High Mileage Oil.

While it’s most important to act quickly when you do see signs of an oil leak, you can also help prevent leaks by following these vehicle maintenance best practices:

• Follow your vehicle’s recommended maintenance schedule.

• Use the most protective engine oil compatible with your car, and switch to high mileage oil when your vehicle reaches 75,000 miles.

• Change oil as often as your manual recommends.

Here are five reasons synthetic oil is better for your car (and the environment) than conventional oil:

• Longer oil life: The typical newer car has an oil change interval of 7,500 miles partially based on the assumption that full synthetic or synthetic blend oil will be used.

• Stability at extreme temperatures: Synthetic oil helps your engine stay cooler in hot weather and start more easily in cold weather.

• Fuel efficiency: By reducing engine friction, synthetic oil helps you get the best mileage out of your vehicle.

• Better for your engine: Synthetic oil provides improved lubrication for engine parts and less sludge buildup, thanks to its chemical purity and molecular consistency.

• Better for our planet: In addition to boosting gas mileage, synthetic oil helps reduce emissions and oil burn-off every mile you drive. And the longer time between oil changes means less oil (and packaging!) is used and recycled.

But don’t take our word for it. In a 2017 study, AAA found1 that synthetic engine oils performed an average of 47 percent better than conventional oils in a variety of industry-standard tests. According to John Nielsen, AAA’s managing director of Automotive Engineering and Repair: "With its superior resistance to deterioration, AAA's findings indicate that synthetic oil is particularly beneficial to newer vehicles with turbocharged engines and for vehicles that frequently drive in stop-and-go traffic, tow heavy loads or operate in extreme hot or cold conditions."

AAA recommends switching to synthetic oil especially for turbocharged engines, and for vehicles driven in “severe” conditions like hot summers, cold winters, towing, and stop-and-go driving.

Related:

Does synthetic oil cause oil leaks in older cars?

You can freely switch between synthetic oil and conventional oil as long as you always use oil that meets or exceeds the standard your vehicle’s manufacturer recommends.

Can you mix synthetic and regular oil?

It’s OK to mix synthetic oil with conventional oil, as long as each oil meets the specifications in your owner’s manual. (And very few vehicles require exclusively conventional or full synthetic oil.) For example, if your car needs oil between changes -- but the oil you have handy is different from your last oil change -- go ahead and top off. Just remember you won’t be getting the full benefits of synthetic oil if you mix in some regular oil.

Synthetic oil changes last longer than conventional oil changes -- but you should not exceed your vehicle’s recommended oil change frequency. The longer oil change intervals of modern cars assume you’ll be using the synthetic blend or full synthetic oil the manual specifies. So, check your vehicle’s manual for both oil type and how often to change oil. Those two specifications work together!

With synthetic oil, automakers usually recommend changing the oil every 5,000 to 7,500 miles, and some models are designed to go 10,000 to even 15,000 miles between oil changes. No longer putting those miles on your car? Follow your manual’s time interval instead. And heed your oil change reminder if it triggers in the meantime. It likely takes your specific driving conditions into account.

High mileage oils contain additives that help prolong engine life and maximize performance in three ways: detergent to eliminate sludge, conditioner to keep rubber seals and gaskets flexible, and additives to lubricate broken-in metal parts and maintain compression.

How does high mileage oil work? As your engine ages, rubber distorts and becomes brittle, so your engine’s seals don’t quite seal anymore. Meanwhile, friction wears down the moving parts, at least to a broken-in state. Both issues open tiny gaps in your engine system, causing problems like oil leaks, oil burning, extra friction, and loss of compression in your engine’s cylinders. Your engine performance suffers, you go through more oil, and the metal parts wear out faster. But the conditioners in high mileage oil chemically react with your seals and gaskets to keep the rubber flexible. The detergents can prevent sludge and eliminate sludge buildup. And high mileage oil is thickened to the higher end of each viscosity range, to fill in those gaps in the seals and metal part connections. This higher base viscosity also pampers your metal components with generous lubrication without exceeding your vehicle’s oil specifications.

For most high mileage vehicles, the benefits of high mileage oil outweigh the increased cost. With the average age of cars and light trucks at nearly 12 years2, many owners are driving higher mileage vehicles and keeping them longer. Delaying the need for major engine repair isn’t just a theoretical question.

Another factor to weigh is the health of your engine’s seals and gaskets. Rubber compresses and distorts with time no matter how much or how little you drive. The seal conditioners in high mileage oil counteract that effect on a chemical level to minimize leaks.

Consider switching to high mileage oil if your vehicle has 75,000 or more miles, or if you notice any of these problems:

• Increased oil consumption.

• Oil stains on your garage floor or driveway.

• Oil streaks on engine parts.

• Louder engine noise.

• Blue smoke from your exhaust system.

High mileage oil should be changed on the same schedule your vehicle’s manual recommends. For vehicles made in the past decade or so, automakers usually recommend changing the oil every 5,000 to 7,500 miles, or if your dashboard oil change reminder triggers. The traditional 3,000-mile oil change interval still applies to some older cars, but many cars with these higher oil change intervals have already reached high mileage status. So check the manual – and heed your vehicle’s oil change indicator. (In some vehicles it takes your actual driving patterns into account.) No longer putting those miles on your car? Follow your manual’s time interval instead.

Can you wait longer between oil changes by using high mileage oil? Midas doesn’t recommend it, given the engine problems these oils help prevent. If your older vehicle is already showing signs of engine wear -- such as burning oil or losing compression – you should be extra careful to follow your recommended oil change schedule.

Synthetic oil offers many benefits that complement the benefits of high mileage oil, including a 47% performance boost over conventional oil in AAA testing.

High mileage oil is available in full synthetic oil, synthetic blend, or conventional oil formulations. Be sure to follow the oil change specifications in your owner’s manual to keep your engine healthy – and your warranty in good standing. With some powertrain warranties as high as 100,000 miles, many high mileage cars are still protected – but using the wrong kind of oil may void your warranty.

Related:

Does synthetic oil cause oil leaks in older cars?

Your Midas mechanic can help you decide whether synthetic or conventional oil is right for your high mileage oil change – and we’ll never put any oil in your vehicle that fails to meet its manual specifications.

The benefits of synthetic oil outweigh the extra cost. AAA’s 2017 study1 found that one synthetic oil change every 7,500 miles costs just $5 more per month than conventional oil, while outperforming conventional oil by 47%. Since better oil performance contributes to long-term engine health, synthetic oil is a great investment in the longevity of your vehicle.

Related:

Can you wait longer between oil changes by using synthetic oil?

When in doubt, a full synthetic oil change every 7,500 miles (or sooner, if your oil reminder activates) is a great rule of thumb. But check your vehicle’s manual -- manufacturers today recommend oil change intervals ranging from 5,000 miles to a whopping 15,000 miles, depending on the vehicle. Today’s longer oil change intervals assume you’re using a type of oil that meets your vehicle’s specifications -- a synthetic blend or better, in most cases. (Don’t worry - Midas never uses engine oils below your vehicle specs.)

It’s a myth that synthetic oil causes leaks. But the myth persists because it’s based on an outdated fact. Back in the 1970s, synthetic oils did sometimes degrade engine seals made of certain materials. Today, synthetic oils help protect your seals.

Synthetic oil does not cause leaks, but you may notice an existing leak after your first synthetic oil change. That’s because synthetic oil can clear away conventional oil build-up that was plugging an existing leak. So synthetic oil doesn’t cause the leak -- it diagnoses it! It may be time for High Mileage Oil. It’s designed to fill in those small gaps and prolong the life of your engine.

In a 2017 study1 by AAA, full synthetic oil offered 47% more engine protection than conventional oil. Learn more about Synthetic vs. Conventional Oil.

• 55-Point Brake Inspection – to diagnose that spongy brake pedal, discover why your brake light is on, or just check out your brakes as part of routine maintenance.

• Brake Pad Replacement – for routine brake maintenance.

• Brake Rotor Service – to complete your brake pad replacement. We’ll smooth out brake pad wear if necessary, or recommend new rotors if you need them.

• Brake Shoe Replacement – similar to brake pad replacement, for drum style brakes.

• Brake Drum Service – similar to brake rotor service, for drum style brakes.

• Brake Fluid Service – from routine brake fluid exchange to brake fluid leak repair.

• Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Service – from your ABS sensors to the system computer module.

• Brake Repair – to all parts of your brake system, from the power brake booster to the parking brake assembly.

Whether you suspect a brake problem (thanks to your brake light, brake pedal, or a suspicious leak), or you’ve just hit your vehicle’s recommended service interval, start by requesting a brake service appointment.

Common brake services include:

• Brake pad or brake shoe replacement

• Brake rotor resurfacing or brake drum turning

• Brake rotor or drum replacement

• Brake fluid exchange or flushing

• Brake line leak repair

• Brake light diagnosis

What’s included in a brake job depends on where each part is in its lifecycle. For example, you may or may not need new rotors with your replacement brake pads. But some brake services need to be duplicated on both wheels of the same axle. Multiple systems in your vehicle are designed for the parts on both sides of your vehicle to be in matching condition.

A brake inspection should include a check of all brake parts and connectors, dashboard lights, external brake lights, brake fluid condition, and hydraulic pressure through the brake lines.

Depending on your vehicle, climate, brake parts, and driving patterns, your brake pads or shoes may last anywhere from 20,000 to 80,000 miles. Brake fluid can last 2-5 years. With such an unpredictable replacement cycle, regular brake inspection is essential. Check your vehicle owner’s manual for your brake inspection schedule – every 10,000-12,000 miles or every year are common recommendations.

You may need new brake pads, rotors, or new brake fluid when you notice any new sound or diminished pedal response when you brake. Worn brake pads can squeak – and the situation will worsen until you hear the grinding sound of unprotected rotors. Worn pads and low brake fluid pressure can each cause a nerve-wracking delay in pedal response. Warped rotors cause vibrations when braking (not to be confused with the expected pulsing sensation of your ABS kicking in).

Here are some common signs of failing brakes:

• Dashboard lights or warnings - Your BRAKE light, ABS light or Check Engine light may indicate brake problems.

• Leaking brake fluid - Any fluid leak should be inspected.

• Any change in brake response - Taking longer to stop or needing to press the pedal farther are classic symptoms of brake trouble.

• Any new noise when braking - Squealing, grinding, squeaking, or rattling? Check the brake pads and rotors. Hissing sounds? Suspect a brake fluid leak problem.

• Any shaking or vibration when braking - Rough stops may mean warped rotors. (But a pulsing pedal can simply be your ABS in action.)

• Soft or spongy brakes - Spongy brakes suggest a problem in your brake fluid lines, or brake shoes.

• Hard or stiff brakes - You may have contaminants in the brake fluid or a bad seal on the master cylinder or brake booster.

• Engine misfiring or stalling - You may have a bad power brake booster.

• Vehicle pulling to one side when braking - You could have faulty brake hardware or an uneven hydraulic issue.

If your car won’t begin, it’s maximum possibly a trouble with your battery or the ignition and starting machine:

• Your battery is tired (however wholesome): It’s the first-class-case scenario: you by chance left for your lights, or a few other battery-draining feature. A leap start will ship you in your way, lesson found out.

• Your battery is simply too antique to maintain a charge: It’s time for a brand new battery. If your leap begin fails – or your vehicle gained’t start the following day – have your battery examined.

• Your starting device needs carrier: It’s no longer your battery. There’s a mechanical problem preventing ignition, draining your battery, or keeping your battery from charging as you drive.

If a single bounce start doesn’t resolve your starting troubles, have your battery professionally tested. If your battery is healthy, it’s time for diagnostic carrier, beginning together with your starter and alternator.

Why gained’t my vehicle begin if it’s not the battery?

If your automobile received’t begin with a completely-charged and healthy battery, the same old suspects are issues along with your starter, your alternator, your ignition switch, your spark plugs or your fuses. It’s also profitable to smooth your battery terminals and connectors in the event that they’re dirty or corroded and spot in case your car will start. But the only way to be sure your battery is healthy is to test it with a voltmeter. When you've got your car towed to Midas, it’s the primary aspect we’ll test.